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2003-04-22 WALK IN THE PARK: Well, that was a nice couple of days off, and needed. It's another beautiful day (hedge: as of this afternoon). If I seem to mention the weather quite often it's because of the time of year and the fact that a full day of sunshine and warmth in this town still seems like a gift after the recently retired winter. I also inherit that from my father - he's very interested in the weather. If you ask him how his day went he might answer that it started out rainy and cool but that later things cleared up so it seems to have turned out all right. On a day like this I really like the neighborhood where I work. It's a just a couple of blocks from Havlíčkovy sady park, shown here. The park climbs up the hill from the Nusle area below and is nicely terraced. When you take a northbound train to Prague you see this out of the window to the right just before entering the last tunnel before the main station. Somebody keeps a vineyard in shape on one face of the hill which obviously used to belong to the owners of the large chateau up on the hill crest. Czechs regard English as needlessly confusing on the subject of vineyards, vines and wines and just what grows on what and is made into which. If you are offered a glass of 'fine vine' by your host that might be a pronounciation issue or a natural confusion arising from the fact that Czechs say 'vino' and mean wine. The German 'wein' further clouds the issue, so just be glad you're getting something to drink. Back to the park: after walking through it on my lunch hour today it's my new favorite Prague green space. That's saying something because I live near Stromovka park, the best and formerly fairest of all, and I'm very protective of it. Many is the mile I have jogged and walked on its paths, and many the seasons I watched arrive and depart. But last August Stromovka was temporarily turned into a lake 25 feet deep as a result of global warming or some other obviously unnatural phenomenon for which America is no doubt responsible. In the space of a week the work of the past 10 years to return the park to its pre-war glory was undone. Sniff. It was very sad. It will come back in time, and none too soon. Over here in Prague 2, the surrounding geography and street layout seems to isolate Havlíčkovy sady and it's never full of sweating, weaving roller bladers in the way Stromovka can be on a weekend. Stromovka's other main drawback is the hideous carnival abutting it on one end and the painfully loud disco beat the ride operators feel they are obligated to provide their thrill seekers. When that gets going you have to stay up in the west end of the park to avoid it. Havlíčkovy sady is always peaceful and has a bonus along one edge in the form of a lovely row of old houses with Art Nouveau facades, including my favorite - a yellow affair with wonderful ironwork on the balconies, beautiful ceramic tiles, and a name given it by its builder, shown high up near the top in period lettering just under the date of completion (1909) - 'New York'. Steve | 18:35 | I BELIEVE THE TELEGRAPH GUY: I doubt this will get much play in the US media, but in the UK the excrement seems to have hit the fan over whether or not Saddam Hussein lover George Galloway, a Labo(u)r backbencher, was being paid big money by the Iraqis to bad mouth Tony Blair and the Americans. He's saying it's a frame up, but if somebody would take my bet, I'd put money on the Daily Telegraph reporter as the truth teller: "I think it would require an enormous amount of imagination to believe that someone went to the trouble of composing a forged document in Arabic and then planting it in a file of patently authentic documents and burying it in a darkened room on the off-chance that a British journalist might happen upon it and might bother to translate it." One of the reasons that British politics is often more entertaining than the American version is that they are so much more accomplished at insulting each other than Americans. Can't wait to see how this turns out.
2003-04-20 ALL ABOUT THE OIL: A reminder that there isn't exactly a big choice out there when you go shopping for people who know how to deal with burning oil wells: But unless the anti-war forces believe Saddam's fires should be allowed to burn out of control indefinitely, they must presumably have an idea of which outfit should have got the contract instead of Boots and Coots. I think we can be sure that the contract would not have gone to some windmill-power concern run by Naomi Klein or the anti-Starbucks Seattle coalition, in the hope of just blowing out the flames or of extinguishing them with Buddhist mantras.Steve | 13:37 | 2003-04-19 HEY, NOT BAD FOR CNN: I was just watching a bit of TV and one of the CNN Baghdad team was wrapping up a sort of essay piece on the symbolism of the fall of the warrior king as he walked the through the trashed out remains of the once impressive interior of one of Saddam's palaces. He ended with a poem by Shelley in which a traveller tells of two huge trunkless legs of stone standing in the desert. I looked it up: ...And on the pedestal these words appear:Steve | 18:33 | AND KAVAN IS AN ASS: This is a couple of weeks old already, but a letter in the Prague Post reminded me that the Czech Social Democrats disgraced themselves recently at a special meeting held to jeer and throw assorted fruits and vegetables in the general direction of the US over its war policy and I was going to mention it. Covering himself in a special kind of disgrace, CSSD member and President of the UN General Assembly (I still can't believe that whenever I see it) Jan Kavan stood up and, with the help of a clumsy quotation from Stanley Kubrick, tried to call the US a gangster pimp and urged the Czech Republic not to join other small nations and become its bitch. That very special allusion again, from the lips of the President of the UN General Assembly: USA - gangster. Small nation members of the coalition - prostitutes. Kavan is a troublesome fellow. On the surface, you ought to be able to respect him. What an upbringing: born in WWII exile to an important diplomat father, who, when young Kavan was a mere boy, was caught up in the Slansky show trials of the 50s and packed off to prison for nothing. Exiled in London for 20 years after getting in trouble with the authorities, he came back to Prague in 1989 and began a career in politics and diplomacy that took him eventually to the post of Foreign Minister and lately to the UN. But he never quite completely buried the scandal around the charges against him that he collaborated with the Czech secret police during his years in London. He has unfortunate friends: he hired, then vigorously defended the scumbag Karel Srba who stinks with corruption and perhaps ordered a hit on a journalist who offended him. And for the whole of his public life he has never failed to miss an opportunity to be snotty about the west and in particular the US. Apart from some communists and of course Mr. Professor President of the Republic himself, Kavan is IMO the most avowedly anti-American Czech politician. Were you watching TV when Bush made his pitch to the UN General Assembly last autumn that precipitated resolution 1441? The little roundish bald guy with glasses sitting up there on the podium behind Bush and banging the gavel was Mr. Kavan. He was probably imagining how much fun it would be to slip a few tacks onto Bush's chair. Steve | 18:20 | SMART GIRL: Read Iranian Girl. She's pretty smart. Her comments are particularly interesting for me as I remember very clearly how popular the Islamic revolution was in the old days among even young Iraqi students studying abroad. People like Christopher Hitchens frequently remind us that the Iranian government began aggressively encouraging families to grow 20 years ago when hundreds of thousands of young Iranians were uselessly lost in the war with Iraq. There are now millions of young people in their teens and early twenties and their collective worldview may not be what the mullahs had in mind. They will eventually constitute a great force for a change for the better. Steve | 16:17 | THE FOREIGNERS' POLICE: That's really what it's called. Cizinecka policie. Appropriately, it doesn't have the same vague hint of distaste in Czech as it does in English. It's that very special branch of the Czech law "enforcement" monolith that lurches and belches its way incompetently around the place, causing more problems than it solves, staying resolutely out of messy affairs like catching criminals, and focusing on what it does best: making a consistently big ass out of itself. Every foreigner who comes to stay for any length of time in Prague knows the place: those drab and banal offices on Olsanske namesti where you have to go for your residency permit. (I think the actual location is marked here by the little flagon of special police beer.) Long lines, stifling atmosphere, unbelievable rudeness, the whole show purposefully designed to put the foreigner at maximum disadvantage and inflict maximum humiliation. This is one of those things that you could spend days bitching about. Wheresoever two or three foreigners are gathered together, certain themes inevitably arise. By 'themes' I mean 'gripes'. One of the few that doesn't soon bore me is the subject of the foreigners' police. To this day I do not cease to be amazed by every fresh new outrage that I hear. This one happened just a few days ago. A young Iraqi women flew in to visit her sister and seek medical care for her son. She never made it out of the airport, and in the interval before being put back on a plane was verbally abused and had a gun (!) waved at her. All foreigner's police war stories gratefully received. Steve | 15:46 | TEMPLATE HELP II: End of discussion, I guess.
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2003-04-18 TEMPLATE HELP I: The only thing blog-related I've had time for today is playing around with settings on this new template I've chosen. For some reason changes to template settings sometimes take a very long time to show up, in contrast to a post which is there in seconds. Also, I've noticed that the style tags in the template header seem to be thrown by the blockquote tags I've been using to inset quotations. The font characterstics blow up and it just defaults to no font. Hmm. Guess I have to add a style tag specifically to handle blockquote? Steve | 22:34 | 2003-04-17 TRAFFIC: I decided to try Site Meter, a free web counter. It would be fun if someday total visitors in one day exceeded one digit. As of this moment, 3:11 p.m. local time, the counter stands at "1". On the sign-up page, you have to indicate your country of residence and Site Meter's combo box list contains the following two interesting possibilities: Czechoslovakia (former) Czech Republic This will keep me awake tonight, I'm sure. Which one should I choose? Steve | 15:13 | GETTING MY HAIR SHORTENED: Every blog descends into the purely irrelevant occasionally, I gather that's half the point, so here's mine for today: I am off for a haircut after work. I always go to the same girl here in Prague, in a little shop one block from my apartment. She's competent, polite, doesn't talk too much and didn't get mad at me once when I forgot an appointment. I pay about $2.50, which is a dollar more than the big shop five blocks away, but who wants to walk that far? Hair cutting is an almost exclusively female occupation in this country, with the exception of some male hair stylists who overcharge women for their high end services. Most of us patronize the neighborhood kadernictvi and are fine with it. I can't call them barbershops because the term to me invokes the red, white and blue barber pole, the smell of cologne and the old gentleman with the blue nylon smock and scissors. The Czech version on average is a little less personable, and they don't waste their time with you. At those prices, turnover is important. I am speaking of men now. Not to be ungallant, but when you look at the results, you do have to wonder what exactly they are doing to many of the ladies in local hair salons all over the country. They seem to spend a good deal of time and money at it, without getting much bang for the buck in return. But I digress. All of this was prompted by this post, randomly run across in the blog of one Howard Owens. Steve | 15:09 | 2003-04-16 SOFT BIGOTRY: Thinking about the reasons for the looting and lawlessness in Iraq reminded me in a roundabout way of this William Saletan bloghdad post on the king sized dose of patronizing drivel being doled out by President Bush and others in their attempts to cheer up the Iraqis. This is great: 3:55 p.m.: Thursday morning, President Bush greeted the people of Iraq on their TV screens. "You are a good and gifted people," he told them as Arabic script appeared below his face. I don't know Arabic, but I'm sure the translation didn't convey what Bush means by "gifted." He doesn't mean exceptional. He means ethnic.Bingo. Look at the picture of old beady eyes at the top of the article. I am certain this is the same condescending expression with which he addresses visiting groups of disadvantaged minority single mothers when they come to call at the White House. And I'm sure they resent it as much as the Iraqis are going to very soon, if they do not already. From the Marine who asked a BBC reporter what city he was in the day his unit rolled into Baghdad, to the one I saw yesterday on TV describing how he stood by while looters robbing a bank walked out with fistfuls of "...what do they have here, what are those called, dinars or something?" to the top boys in Washington, the US seems to be happy to display its maximum rube face to the public right now. This phase of the war can't end too soon. Steve | 18:31 | LOOT: Some interesting comments, also over on Scott MacMillan's blog, about the looting in Iraq. To wit, is Rumsfeld out of line in suggesting (on Meet the Press) that this is your standard, run of the mill, post-revolution looting that comes included with regime change as an all in one package? Donald suggests that the same thing happened in eastern Europe, for goodness' sake. Scott avers. "In fact, looting of hospitals and museums did not happen here in Prague, nor in most Communist capitals, and I'd be surprised if it happened anywhere in Eastern Europe in 1989." A reader takes exception, saying that there must have been some looting back then. I tend to agree with Scott, that there may have been isolated incidents, but there was nothing in Warsaw, Prague, Budapest, etc. like the looting and destruction apparently still going on in Baghdad and other cities, particularly not directed against hospitals, museums or government buildings. Why is this? Look at the differences between Iraq in April 2003 and eastern Europe in late 1989. All of the iron curtain revolutions occurred from within, were hugely popular and in most cases awakened patriotic sentiments that pulled people together, at least temporarily, in a shared experience of rare historical significance. About the only similarity I can find is the pace with which the respective regimes fell when finally pushed - in the same way a big old tree, rotted out and empty from the inside, goes over surprisingly easy. Not everyone had a Velvet revolution in 1989, but in none of the cases was the catalyst for change delivered in the form of a hostile invading army which dropped bombs on cities, killed thousands of conscripts and is making a lot of people who are otherwise Saddam haters unhappy about the shame of losing such a confrontation no matter what the circumstances, and nervous about being occupied. I don't say that those facts lead inexorably to total breakdown of law and order, but you can't make the case that the looting in Baghdad is an unpleasant but unavoidable side effect of regime change. The violent nature of this particular change cannot be dismissed - and as the purveyors of the violence the US shares some of the responsibility for the fallout. US troops now being assigned to security detail is thus way overdue. Rumsfeld wants to sidestep responsibility for the damage and loss. Let's say we suspend judgement on the museum. Nobody was forcing Iraqi looters at gunpoint to trample on such a symbol of their heritage. But couldn't we have set up some protection at least for hospitals a lot earlier on? The reality of the health care crisis has been established for days. This was a misstep - you'd think Centcom would at least recognize a PR opportunity when they saw one. One last thought on the eastern Europe analogy - Rumsfeld may been more right than he knows in suggesting that looting occurred here too. In many respects, that's actually true. This country has undergone a 13-year long cycle of systematic looting of former state owned enterprises, banks, shell-game construction projects, investment funds, pension funds, and the outright theft of foreign investors' assets, and it's still going on strong (link via Arellanes). Perhaps the corrupting power of revolutionary change really is unavoidable? Steve | 18:05 | FUNNY FOREIGNER LINKS: Thanks out to MacMillan, who has updated his expat links. This one changes color while you watch. Cool. Steve | 16:13 | SIMPLE SIMON: Ah, and here we have one of my pet peeves - knowing, sarcastic satire like this from Simon Jenkins in the Times Online today. Ho ho ho - real funny, yes, the obvious extension of the war in Iraq is that we will eventually invade France, knock off its regime and then stand by while the Louvre is looted. How very completely and pathetically British, in the shoddiest, snobbiest sense of the word. You can have a whole war with thousands of deaths, prisoners of war, friendly fire, people going hungry and without water and medical supplies, but what really, really gets the ire up is when a museum gets ransacked and lots of pretty things disappear in wheelbarrows. (I'm imagining the sitting rooms of many Baghdad apartments suddenly enhanced these days by the addition of a 3,000 year-old bust of some old Babylonian warrior king - what kind of interior decorating issues does this raise?) Oh stop, Simon, stop - you're killing me. I love this bit: Coalition forces again fought “battle-lite”. The application of shock-and-awe to Caen and Rouen and the blasting of infrastructure targets round Paris devastated French morale. A re-enactment of Operation Overlord saw the 21st Army Group reform in Hampshire and storm ashore at Normandy’s Omaha and Utah beaches. Veteran units of the 101st Airborne were allowed to seize Pegasus Bridge, again. The Marine Corps had Steven Spielberg and Tom Hanks “embedded”.Phewwwwww... Steve | 12:57 | Wherever you are, if you're not in Prague this midday, you're out of luck. Days like this revive the amnesia instinct, as winter fades into the distant, improbable past. Steve | 12:11 | 2003-04-15 HE WHO HESITATES: According to Matt Welch, [t]onight I had dinner with a pal who interviewed Radovan Karadzic back in 1992, before the Bosnian slaughter reached epic proportions. “I could have grabbed his gun and shot him right there,” he said. “Sometimes I wonder if I should have.” Do you think such a thought might cross the mind of Yoko Ono and her pals, as they spend a hilarious eight-hour session yukking it up with El Jefe?Castro seems such an anachronism it's hard to bend the mind back in his direction these days. And yet he is still standing on his opponents' heads and lining others up against the wall. Quite disgusting to imagine that skinny-chic little New York socialite chirping away at the old bum. I recall that President Benes remarked before he died that he wished he'd used the opportunity of his one on one meetings with Hitler in Berchtesgarden before the war to do old Adolf in and thereby saved a lot of people a lot of trouble. Wishful thinking I'm afraid. Castro is only ever likely to meet with glitterati and BBC reporters, so fat chance. Steve | 18:07 | SLOVAK ROMA: Hard to believe, but apparently true tale of forced sterilizations in Slovakia of Romani women. In recent years. I have heard stories of this happening on the Czech side, all supposedly well before 1989. This would rank above the segregation wall built by the good citizens of Usti nad Labem up in the north of the CR a few years back in terms of outrage. Steve | 15:36 | 2003-04-11 NO ANSWER III: Thoughtful Josh Marshall helps clarify what we think about the dead Iraqi soldiers. Steve | 16:20 | NO ANSWER II: It is possible, however, to keep eyes on the ball, and as a response to the deaths of innocent bystanders, this sounds about right to me: We can’t yet tell how many Iraqi civilians had to die, but we can say with certainty that their deaths were the responsibility of a cruel and vicious regime, which put them in harm’s way as its only military and political asset, and which sent black-shirted Saddam Youth out in marauding gangs to intensify the death agony of the despotism. That's Hitchens again, and of course. I've already seen a couple of comments about his Slate piece to the effect that it's a bit over the top. When you consider who he's aiming at, I can't agree. The anti-war far left went so far over the top in this affair that they've set a new standard. I for one will be happy if they keep quiet now for awhile - there are more important and interesting things going on. Steve | 16:05 |NO ANSWER: At some point, there is no more debate, nothing you can say that is adequate or appropriate in answer to something like this: From Mrs Muriel SyedSteve | 15:24 | POCKETS OF RESISTANCE: Some of the more thoughtful anti-war writers are already taking preemptive action against the 'we told you so' mopping up operation led by Hitchens et al. First two I have come across (worth reading) are Michael Kinsley and Julian Barnes. Will add more as appropriate. Steve | 14:50 | 2003-04-10 WELL ROUNDED: Read Scott MacMillan's post in which he muses on the reasons behind all the big-media bashing going on recently. The availability of dozens of new news sources allows us to window shop and absorb the ones that prop up our views, and thus armed, to take potshots at those that don't, or to simply tune them out. Much as I enjoy the sport inherent in outing the BBC's amazing bias masquerading as news reporting, I do read the site, watch the cable channel and listen to the World Service. I have been boring my friends in the states for years telling them how much superior, in general, the beeb is to almost anything you can see or hear in the US, and my return visits confirm this every time. In addition, I read several other weblogs and news sites daily. Do I strive for diversity? They tend to be liberal hawkish in nature and pro-war (more or less my views), or lefty doveish and very anti-war (good for entertainment value). Interestingly, I realize I do not make a regular effort to follow the rantings of the far right. Too little time, too irrelevant, too uninteresting. We all self-select into categories of media and information consumption that comfort us to some extent; I don't think the impulse to seek out views that challenge our own is particularly natural. But it's probably right that this tendency combined with today's technology creates more space between different camps rather than providing the means to understand each other and come closer. UPDATE: Warning - stupid Blogger is acting up again. That link above is sometimes getting a Not Found result. I have had the same problem with my archive links all day. Something's going on. Steve | 20:22 | THANKS OF A GRATEFUL NATION: The Prague Post letters page is always good for a chuckle. You have to jump over the inevitable and regular submissions from tourists gushing about what a wonderful, hospitable and inspirational country this is, and the effusive thank yous to the Post's editors for providing such a wonderful publication, but the comments are occasionally revealing. For example, the current crop of letters contains several expressions of sincere and heartfelt thanks to the Czech Republic for standing by the US in its time of need. Others express a (just) slightly more accurate thanks to ex-president Havel who is the one who actually came out and said he supports the US. None exhibit the slightest awareness that a majority of citizens oppose or opposed the war - mainly citing the lack of UN approval as the reason - or that the current prez is busy distancing the CR from the US like there's no tomorrow. Steve | 19:41 | PRICE OF A LIFE: William Saletan asks peaceniks: "Are you against killing, or are you against war? Because what happened in Iraq suggests you may have to choose." Simply put, the number of innocent people who are dead because we ousted Saddam is dwarfed by the number of innocent people who are dead because we didn't. The use of American force is on one side of the ledger, and mass killing is on the other. Trends in military and media technology make this dilemma increasingly likely where belligerent murderers rule. You can keep your hands clean, or you can keep many more people alive. It's up to you.Steve | 18:02 | HITCH A CHARTIST: Trivia - what leading commentator of British origin and Adams Morgan residency was arrested once at a Charter 77 meeting in Prague? Find out. Steve | 17:43 | TOGAS BACK IN FASHION?: Nice profile of El Wolfowitz in the Wapo. Does he or does he not have double secret plans for building a modern American empire? Paul feels misunderstood by critics of his vision for democracy in the middle east. Pretty important stuff; this person's ideas have shaped the essence of the policy that brought US troops all the way to Baghdad. As usual, things are more complex than his sharpest critics admit. Recommended. Steve | 17:36 | ALL JAZZ ERA: Back. And they have a sense of humor! Steve | 16:19 | FIERCE RESISTANCE IN BAGHDAD:Not everyone's cheering: “YANKEE bastard,” yelled the young British peacenik at the first American tank to roll up to the Palestine Hotel. “Go home.” Steve | 12:12 | 2003-04-09 CZECHS DEMUR, SLOVAKS STEP UP. SHAME: Well, well, well. What a nice little convergence of events. Bravo, Red Vaclav. Consider this: on the day when most of the world is watching scenes of cheering Iraqis and falling Saddam statues, when though we know it's not over yet we nonetheless see the evidence to disprove the rantings of those desperate to undermine the effort no matter the cost, we have a nice little reminder of the character of that kindly grandfather who sits up in Prague castle. This morning's Final Word tells the charming tale of how U.S. Ambassador Craig Stapleton (a cousin of some sort to George W.) recently paid a courtesy call to Mr. Professor President Klaus. He was amazed to hear Klaus pointedly state that he wished forthwith to have the Czech Republic removed from the list of "the willing" coalition members participating in the liberation of Iraq. Mr. Ambassador took offence and then promptly took his leave. This latest Klaus-cravenness is all a calculated ploy, calculated as usual by himself by holding his wet finger up in the near stagnant breeze of public opinion and deciding that the best policy (for him, politically) is to Not Get Involved. Defer, demur, decline. A far away country about which we know nothing. What is the Slovak President up to these days? About 30 minutes ago I was watching Ari Fleischer live describing the President's activities this afternoon; they included a visit with Slovak President Schuster during which Bush warmly thanked him for the strong support of Slovakia in the war - this was repeated a few times. How ironic - Vaclav Havel signed the original letter from European leaders supporting the US before Slovakia did! Klaus has single handedly landed his country on the White House shit list. Ad. The Czech cabinet is not smelling of lavender either. They announced yesterday that they will not even vote on whether to send one of the country's (well-regarded) military field hospitals to Iraq until more than a week from now. Oh, well done. Your mothers will be proud. Steve | 21:20 | MOST SINCERELY DEAD HORSE: Sorry, but just after finishing that last post, I clicked over to the BBC and in their blog-lite "Reporters' Log" section came across these two entries, one after the other, posted up little over an hour ago. Baghdad :: Andrew Gilligan :: 1242GMTAnd a little before that: Baghdad :: Paul Wood :: 1127 GMTI think Paul is tired. Note the petulant tone, the bottom-lip-stuck-out pout in disappointment that Iraqis cheered rather than jeered the troops. If things suddenly turn worse for the Americans we might see him cheer up. OK, enough of this obsession. Steve | 16:09 | DEAD HORSE: I try but can't resist flogging the long dead corpse of the BBC's credibilility. There are other, more important things going on right now, but if you have a little time, this article (found via Sullivan) is entertaining in its deconstruction of BBC announcers' and reporters' vain attempts to deny the evidence of the American entry into Baghdad and of their serious efforts give equal time to the ravings of the hilarious Baghdad Bob. Jonathan Marcus, the BBC’s correspondent in Qatar, was being interviewed by a troubled World Service anchor, "Jonathan, who should we believe? The Americans? Or Saddam?"That was a serious question. Now that whatever is left of the old regime is imploding, look for plenty of dire warnings about American naughtiness to come in the next phase. Steve | 15:00 | WOW: Chills...Is it happening? HEARTS AND THE OTHER THING: The phrases "Hearts and Minds" and "Shock and Awe" and "Command and Control" and "The Willing" and a lot of others start to lose their meaning rapidly in the same way as does a word repeated over and over. However, if American forces are now going to suddenly find themselves transformed from a liberating army into an occupation force (call it by its real name), one thing worries me. There is apparently a stark contrast in the way American and British troops are trained to interact with the local people. It is the ability of British troops to mix with locals that helps earn trust. Unlike the Americans our lads are encouraged to go out on the streets, absorb the local culture and strike up conversation with locals.This seems so short sighted and even stupid that I hope the Americans will be willing to learn from the British in this in the same way they appear to have done in handling urban warfare. Steve | 11:30 | 2003-04-08 AM I DREAMING? Many people apparently at some point in their lives have that dream or a variation of it where you suddenly become aware, standing in some public place, that you have inadvertantly left the house that day clad only in your underwear. I suppose it derives from feelings of insecurity or fears of being found wanting in some respect. I wonder if the fellow in the middle of this picture was wondering if he hadn't somehow woken up in the middle of a dream the day before yesterday. Steve | 19:47 | PLEASE TAKE OFF YOUR SHOES: Foreign visitors to private homes here in this country, especially Americans and English ones, are sometimes bemused by the Czech custom of removing your shoes before entering. Its roots are practical - carpets were and for many still are expensive items that need to last for years or decades. Every Czech flat and family house has its well populated shoe rack hard by the front door (occasionally even outside on the landing) and here sits the footwear, never allowed to besmirch the floors within. This custom is not apropos much of anything, other than I was reminded of it by this photo of some foreign visitors relaxing recently in an Iraqi private residence. It's hard to say from the evidence here whether Iraqis observe a similar custom, but if they do these visitors seem to have ignored it. Here's another accidental tourist visiting a famous Iraqi landmark the other day. I wager this picture will end up framed over his fireplace someday. Steve | 19:30 | KRUGMAN SPOT ON: Wow, you don't get to say that too often. But he's right: John Kerry is campaigning for President. Of course he's for replacing the current occupant of the White House. Just because he used the words "regime change" and aimed them at Washington instead of Baghdad, doesn't mean he is unpatriotic. Republicans (like Marc Racicot, chairman of the RNC) and other fools: just shut it. And do not presume to intone ominously about what is or is not acceptable to say during wartime. The Republican party has no franchise on patriotism and no business flapping its gums trying to define it. Steve | 19:06 | 2003-04-06 BASTARDS' HQ: Highly, highly recommended reading here in a story by Matt Labash of the Weekly Standard where he describes his and Christopher Hitchens' attempts to thwart Kuwaiti bureaucracy and get into Iraq. They finally make it, but Hitchens can't resist infuriating their Kuwaiti babysitter in the process, and is told to hand in his credentials. Hitchens gladly obliged, and told Yacoub he didn't want them anyway, since they didn't seem to get him anywhere. (He did express regret that he had to relinquish the one that said "unilateral.") Playing Powell to Hitchens's Rumsfeld, I got off the bus, and tried to smooth things over with Yacoub, who had had a long day himself.Steve | 12:35 | 2003-04-04 US TROOPS draw a line in the sand in Iraq. Steve | 21:51 | WAR LINKS: Nice set of Iraq war links maintained by Lewis & Clark College Law School. Good school; it's in my home town. Steve | 16:15 | CZECHOSLOVAKIA AND IRAQ: Via Sullivan, an interesting chart on The Dissident Frogman showing the members of the Who Armed Saddam Society in order of importance. The old Czechoslovakia seems to have had a relatively cozy relationship with Iraq. I have not seen or heard this mentioned in the Czech media in the context of the war. The present day Czech Republic (probably) has no reason to fear the embarrassing news that will emerge from a liberated Iraq, unlike France, Russia and China. Years ago when I used to teach a few English classes, I had a couple of students who were engineers for one of the former state construction companies specializing in very large scale projects like roads, bridges and dams. For decades the country has been sending engineers abroad to participate in developing country infrastructure projects. These two guys had spent years in Iraq working on road bridges. Somehow they were able to find out that during the Gulf War the Americans had blown up some of the ones they were involved with. They professed no hard feelings. Steve | 14:11 | ROY IN PRAGUE FOR WRITER'S JAWBONE CONVENTION: More on Arundhati Roy - you can see her next week (April 6-10) here in town at the Prague Writer's Festival, otherwise known as the Prague William S. Burroughs Love Fest. Monday is "Guardian Day" and Roy leads off a series of press conferences at the swanky Hotel Josef. Lots of other writers lined up, too. Steve | 12:57 | 2003-04-03 ROY STRIKES: Arundhati Roy goes ballistic in a Grauniad piece from yesterday. Whoa, Nellie, she is brutal. She is merciless. I'm still reeling from the concussion. This is journalistic carpet-bombing. It's a verbal anthrax attack against the US. It's the MOAS - Mother of All Screeds. It's a hymn of vitriolic hatred of America that goes on just a bit too long to avoid becoming boring. There is too much here to fisk. To properly fisk this article, I would have to take apart each sentence, sometimes clauses within sentences. No time, and it's not worth it. Have a look at it though, lots of people apparently think Arundhati is pretty much OK by them. If you can't be bothered, I picked out this representative sample as a taste: In the fog of war - one thing's for sure - if Saddam 's regime indeed has weapons of mass destruction, it is showing an astonishing degree of responsibility and restraint in the teeth of extreme provocation. Under similar circumstances, (say if Iraqi troops were bombing New York and laying siege to Washington DC) could we expect the same of the Bush regime? Would it keep its thousands of nuclear warheads in their wrapping paper? What about its chemical and biological weapons? Its stocks of anthrax, smallpox and nerve gas? Would it?I am smelling something right now, and it ain't sweet. Steve | 21:24 | PLUS CA CHANGE: Politicians are poor moral compasses. Great Slate story from 1999 harpooning Congressional hypocrisy over Kosovo which could be transposed directly to the present. Via Scott MacMillan. Steve | 18:07 | THE WAR IN THE NORTH: It's going very well, under equally or possibly more difficult conditions than in the south, and it's not getting enough attention. Here's Christopher Hitchens reminding us to pay attention to the Kurds as well as the big action in the south. Big gains are being notched up without some of the advantages the southern invaders have. There is no friendly or neutral country to serve as a rearguard, as there is in the case of Jordan and Kuwait, because the fools who run today's Turkey couldn't even be bribed to act in their own self-interest.Found this belief.net story via Sullivan describing the northerners views on the war and prospects of success. Belief.net - hmm...but the article is well-done. Steve | 17:58 | 2003-04-01 GLUED: I should be leaving the office, but am instead sitting here blog surfing and trying to catch up on today in the real world. Since my experience of this War is confined to gazing into the bubble aura surrounding my 15" LCD laptop display, I offer this link to a recent Spectator cartoon. Via Apostablog.
'So what did you view in the war, Daddy?' Steve | 21:25 | 2003-03-31 SPRING, FORWARD: We are tired of waiting. This is that time of year - behind us lie months of dark, dank days that never really recover from the night before, icy (or muddy) sidewalks that become trickier to negotiate than normal when all you have are the broken paving stones to watch out for, outside air that sometimes seems undistinguishable from that in the pub down the street from where I live - which is pretty damn bad - and the morose, hibernating stick skeletons of the city's trees blending into the general brown drabness. We've just about had enough. I grew up in the Pacific Northwest. I can handle rain, but a landscape of brown and variations on brown eventually wears me down. It's that extra March bonus month of winter that seems so unfair - doesn't seem to serve any purpose other than to prop up the market for therapists treating seasonal affective disorder. I was thus pleased to note that today was the best weather day yet of the coming spring, approproriate enough in marking the time change. On particularly nice days, I sometimes IM this link to friends abroad whom I wish to taunt. (Works best during Prague daylight hours, by the way). Steve | 21:55 | MUST. HAVE. SLEEP. Thinking about sleep right at the moment because I feel a bit deprived in that department. Not just because the time change rudely forced me to get up an hour earlier than normal. I find myself in the office until too late - I'll allow this to continue until the next milestone is met in about a week. That's putting my foot down. I remember an interview with some marines a day or two ago who claimed to have hit hour 60 without sleep. Imagine the adrenaline - they must be getting through lifetimes' supplies of it. Imagining that, and imagining the sleep deprived people of towns under attack from invaders and their fellow countrymen gives things some perspective. Steve | 21:18 | 2003-03-29 BLAIR - BONKERS?: Matthew Parris is a former conservative member of (the British) Parliament and a talented newspaper columnist usually found in the Times. He's also, unusually for a conservative, well-known for his anti-American, pro-appeasement stance on any issue involving the use of military force. He strongly opposed any action in Afghanistan against the Taliban, and he's even more strongly opposed to the current war. In his column today, he changes tack and abandons all pretence of reasoned argument on issues, and presents a long, detailed case for the fact that Tony Blair has gone...insane. Literally, in the clinical sense. Read it as an example of one of the most breathtaking ad hominem attacks on a public figure you'll likely encounter. Steve | 09:20 | 2003-03-28 DJINDJIC ASSASSINATION CONT: I was somewhat stumped by this violent killing. Happening in broad daylight, in a busy street, quick and efficient - a professional hit on the elected leader of a European state. Iraq had been monopolizing my attention so much that for a time this didn't register as deeply as it should have. This is a mistake. I come from a history background and have read a bit about how Serbia in the past has had a talent for finding itself at the center of outsized imbroglios. Despite the earth-shattering realization that the Iraq war is not going to be over in a few more days, and despite the fact that no doubt we are now in for an extended run of heavy, defeatist pessimism (Newton's third law applies equally to human expectations as to physics), it's useful to step back and take a look around. RFE/RL has a long look at the fallout from the assassination in today's Balkan Report. Scott MacMillan has been musing about this strange case over at his blog and provides a link to his recent Slate article on international media reaction to Djindjic's death. Steve | 19:32 | BBC IN ONE-UPMANSHIP CONTEST WITH SELF: No comment needed. Intrepid Paul Wood in Baghdad: Baghdad has been bombarded before - in 1991 and 1998 - but nothing like this.Just like that, the US has taken Saddam's place as bugbear of the Iraqi people. It's a culmination of 12 years of crushing sanctions, two years of Israeli-Palestinian fighting in which the United States has been seen as supporting the Israeli side, and because it's widely believed that the US has come to Iraq to steal its oil.Oh. My. God. This is my new current leader in the BBC hyperbole stakes, by the way. Steve | 14:20 | PRAGUEBLOGGING: Another new Prague blogger: Doug Arellanes, who's been hanging around this town about as long as I have, joins in the fray with his own site Arellanes.com. A member of the former Prognosis newspaper crowd, he seems to have his finger into many pies. Following a reference from his site I came across the interesting fact that New York City boasts 2000 bloggers at last count. We Prague ex-pat bloggers have a way to go to reach those numbers, but we look to have the shoots of a nice little community sprouting up. 'Ex-pat' - to be honest I have never liked calling myself one. To me it calls up an association with a pin-striped westerner (British, in my own stereotype of choice), here on a two-year "secondment" with one of your KPMGs or Accentures, on full salary plus housing allowance plus five paid trips home a year. Then it's off to the next hardship posting. Perhaps I'm a little envious of certain aspects of that existence. But you also get included in the package the standard contempt and disdain for the locals, near complete lack of interest in learning the language beyond the challenging jedno pivo, prosim ("I'll have a pint, mate"), the mysterious belief that the country's borders end at the Prague city limits and the one-note conversational prop of war stories about the babes. We need a better term to denote those who came, stayed awhile, made connections, perhaps even put down a few roots and have contributed a little bit to the place whether or not they are still here. Suggestions welcome. Steve | 12:19 | 2003-03-27 MAIL ORDER BRIDES AND US FOREIGN POLICY: From RFE/RL's Russia report, a disturbing story of anti-Americanism in that country: Workers at a marriage agency in Sverdlovsk Oblast have noted a decline in the interest of local women in U.S. bridegrooms, Novyi region reported on 26 March. Valentina Polisyuk, proprietor of the International Friendship Society, attributes the decline not to recent U.S. foreign-policy moves, but to a visit by a group of U.S. men to Yekaterinburg last year. According to Polisyuk, many of her clients found the U.S. men to be "boring, cold martians with dead eyes."What about the possibility that the visitors actually were martians? Think about it. Anyway, I don't buy the excuse. Clearly the mail order brides have gone soft on Saddam. Yet more economic fallout from the war.... My eyes hurt: we have a big, hairy milestone release coming up and I am weary from exhorting people to keep noses on grindstones. Not much time for posting for a few more days. Steve | 20:05 | 2003-03-26 SALAM, KEEP YOUR HEAD DOWN: I've been thinking just this same thing recently. Glenn Reynolds suggests that the guy should seriously consider how smart it is to continue posting. Of course, if he's traceable somehow by Iraqi sniffers he may already have laid a trail. But still, it seems to be inviting trouble to continue just now when it might be a lot safer in the not too distant future. Just hope he knows what he's doing. Steve | 13:00 | 2003-03-25 OLD GAS MASKS, GASP: Oh dear, one seriously large fuck up for the Czech defense ministry. If you are going to send an enormous shipment of gas masks to Kuwait for use by the Kuwaiti military as well as civilians, they might as well be usuable. That point got lost on whoever loaded up 5000 old masks from the dusty, dirty back end of some old Czech warehouse and packed them off to the Gulf. The defense minister rightly points out that this is shameful. The director of the company that had the contract piles on the shame by giving the all-too-frequent excuse that is the immediate, dead giveaway of a holdover from pre-Revolution times: "It's not our fault...." If I was sitting in Centcom and I saw this, I might take another look at the advisability of deploying the Czech anti-chemical warfare units. This is too bad. Steve | 17:28 | SPORTS AND UDAY: More reason to hope Uday is dead - this very revealing Sports Illustrated article detailing his bizarre and violent role in Iraqi international sports organizations for the past 20 years. Slotted into the Sport Fuhrer role by his father back in 1980, Uday indulged in his own family's favorite sports of fear and intimidation, torture and murder to prod Iraqi teams on to greatness. Not surprisingly, their performances have declined ever since. A former Iraqi international volleyball player: Iraqi sports are worse today than ever. Our teams used to win. There was much pride in playing for your country. But Uday never understood pride, only fear. He was never an athlete. He thought he could use his father's sadistic approach to improve performance. He has failed.I was fascinated to learn that the two most influential international sports bodies, the IOC and FIFA (both organizations corrupt to the core), have been petitioned in the past to condemn Iraq's treatment of its athletes, and have refused. Do read this. And add the IOC and FIFA to the list of bodies and nations that are not looking forward to the truth about the Iraqi regime coming out. Steve | 11:40 | 2003-03-24 BBC COLD TURKEY: Giving up BBC-bashing would be like giving up tobacco, I would guess. That would mean, quite simply, not watching, reading or listening to the "world's premier news organization." It's not as easy as it sounds. The road to recovery would be fraught with temptation, my finger quivering over the remote or hestitating before skipping over THAT link in my bookmark list. Just another little look, another peek - it would be so easy. What the hell are they saying now? I can delete the bookmark, but I'm not sure I could de-choose BBC World from my range of cable offerings, so I'd probably keep it. And there it will be, oh so close, and I know I'll not be able to hold out for long. It's not just a matter of enforced diversity for the benefit of this blog effort, which, after all, has at least some notional connection to Prague. It's a matter of personal mental health - you cannot listen to the stuff for days on end in times like these without suffering stressful side effects. A little, tiny slice of what is now a 24-hour, sustained effort to discredit any positive news related to the war: The first Gen. Franks press conference, which I believe might become a classic media studies case history, was literally fisked by the BBC announcer reviewing the main points, most of which were chosen because they corresponded to questions asked by the BBC's correspondent at the time. Announcer's overall assessment: "Frankly I found him (the general) unconvincing." Franks opines that WMD will eventually be discovered. BBC: "But of course, none have yet been found." Franks: "We are happy with the progress we've made so far." BBC: "But he was hesitant in defending the ferocity of the opening of the bombing campaign, and was forced to fall back on repeating the benefits of smart bomb technology, their targeting, etc. And of course you might say the war is going well unless you are under the bombardment." Franks points out that he's joined on the dais by the military commanders of five different allied countries, and that in all, 30 nations are involved in the campaign. BBC: "You can debate whether this is a unilateral effort or not, and of course missing from the list of 30 countries are notable exceptions France, Germany and Russia. But this is anyway irrelevant, because the UN didn't approve the action" (my itals). These tatty little deconstructions invariably end with the BBC mouthpiece gazing with slightly sad, concerned eyes into the camera, palms figuratively or literally turned up in a weary gesture of resignation as if to say, "faced with phillistines like these, what more can one say?" Oh, but don't lose that thought: do us all a favor and say a lot less. Steve | 21:05 | FREUDIAN SLIPS: I may have to impose a ban on myself on bitching about the BBC. As targets go, they make the broad side of a barn look like a postage stamp. If I don't watch out, I'll write about little else. But it's so hard to resist. Andrew Sullivan seems to getting some momentum behind his BBC watch campaign, and taking a cue from another item in his posts from today, I would propose a Freudian slip watch. I spent the day driving from Prague to Brno and back, and had the radio tuned to the beeb most of the way. During a morning segment on what the world papers had to say about the war, the reader was describing a Syrian front page that, along with its headline, showed pictures of the dead and captured soldiers thoughtfully broadcast by al jazeera. "And here," she said, "are the pictures evidently showing the murderers, rather the murdered, soldiers." And no, I am not making that up. Steve | 19:37 | 2003-03-23 NPR PRESENTS THE BEEB: Now that the war has started, NPR program directors apparently can't resist dishing up more and more of the BBC. Some of their unsuspecting listeners are being treated to thoughtful analysis like this. Steve | 13:00 | |
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